Instructions, 1:700 SMS Seydlitz 1915, 3D printed kit
SMS Seydlitz was a battlecruiser built by the German Navy in 1911. The ship was designed based on the Moltke-class cruiser. The ship's hull was strengthened to improve seaworthiness and increase the bow freeboard, and major improvements were made to its armor and watertight protection. The thickness of the side waterline armor was close to that of battleships of similar tonnage.
After the outbreak of World War I, during the Battle of Dogger Bank, the shell loading room of the stern turret of the Seydlitz was pierced, causing a fire and nearly causing the ammunition depot to explode, causing the two rear main gun turrets to lose their combat capability. Based on the lessons learned from this operation, the German Navy improved the protection measures of the ammunition storage room and the ammunition delivery channel to prevent the turret and its ammunition delivery channel from being damaged, and the fire from spreading to the ammunition depot, endangering the safety of the entire ship.
In the Battle of Jutland, Seydlitz was hit by 22 large-caliber armor-piercing shells and one torpedo, all five main gun turrets were destroyed, and a large amount of water entered the cabin, with the total amount of water entering exceeding one-fifth of the displacement. After losing contact with the fleet, it staggered back to the German home base alone, which is legendary. The excellent damage control and protection design of Seydlitz earned it the name of "unsinkable battleship". The watertight structure design and turret protection advantages adopted by German battleships were used as references by various countries when building large warships. After the war, Seydlitz was extradited to the United Kingdom and sank in Scapa Flow.
This is a ship model developed by ModellbauRay Studio in 2024. It has a resin cast hull and a 3D printed superstructure. This ship model is very detailed, which makes it difficult to make and not suitable for beginners. Of course we also provided spare parts to this kit for easily damaged parts.
General Instruction-How to build 3D printed kits
Our full-hull models are often delivered as one complete piece to simplify your work. You don't have to glue the upper and lower bottoms together, which usually creates seams that can take a lot of time to fix and damage the details of the model.
Sand the bottom of the ship model on a flat sandpaper to remove excess material.
After getting the bottom flat, use a flat-edge carving knife to remove the excess material. Then, polish the entire ship's bottom.
We recommend drilling holes before starting, to make it easier to hold. It is better to drill holes in the barbette and fix it with screws.
After that spray the black shadow color and deck color. The model is very detailed, so it is not recommended to spray a high grit of primers.
Then carefully remove the support pillars of the 3D printed part.
Then glue the main components. The latest models are hollowed and you don’t have to drill holes for portholes.
We recommend masking the deck immediately after installing the main tower. Then install small parts afterwards. This will minimize damage to the model.
Below are the installation instructions for small parts.
Use 0.4mm copper tube (included) to make the anti-torpedo net support rod
It is recommended to paint before installing the rigging, which can increase the adhesion of the rigging.
Rigging material is not included, it can be purchased separately.（Link here）
PE railings are not included, it can be purchased separately.（Link here）
It is recommended to spray paint the railing before installing it on the model.
Figurs are not included, you can make the scene more vivid by adding little figures. （Link here）
Please note that not all models have water decals. If the following image appears on the product page, it means that kit has water decals.
